Tim Richards - I, Writer

I, Writer
Tim Richards
Freelance Writer

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Asia

	Frozen in time Traveller, 7 March 2026 "Of all the onshore excursions we’ve enjoyed in the past few days, this one promises to be the most special, for Angkor Ban was lucky to escape the full devastation of the genocidal Khmer Rouge regime of the 1970s. Instead of meting out the destruction inflicted elsewhere throughout the country, the Khmer Rouge preserved this town for its own use, using it for storage and housing. Thus, through a twist of fate, its traditional appearance was preserved. It has also retained – and restored – much of its culture..." Taking an excursion from a river cruise in Cambodia, aboard the APT Mekong Serenity. [Read the full article here]
	Delta delicacies Traveller, 22 February 2026 "Stepping inside the church, we admire its numerous curved arches and a large stained-glass window glowing with light on this bright tropical day. As we sit in the pews, our Vietnamese guide Hung tells us a little of the church’s history, then segues into a brief lesson in the Vietnamese language. It’s complex. As Hung points out, the language’s tonal system can make the word for ‘mother’ sound like the word for ‘rice shoot’ via a mere slip of the lip..." Joining an excursion from a river cruise in Vietnam, aboard the APT Mekong Serenity. [Read the full article here]
	Mellow meander Traveller, 24 January 2026 "Boarding a sampan, a traditional boat with an upward-curved bow, our group is transported across the river to Cai Be, where we walk to the local church. It’s a survivor of the French colonial era, and though its architecture is very European it seems to have taken on some of the colour and energy of Vietnam. Inside, the bright tropical sunlight brings the stained-glass to vivid life, while the stonework near the altar is decorated with bright purple lilies..." Taking a memorable river cruise from Vietnam to Cambodia aboard the APT Mekong Serenity. [Read the full article here]
	Lonely Planet: Epic Train Trips of the World (sections on the Eastern & Oriental Express and Northern Explorer trains) 1 September 2025 "No-one would describe Singapore’s Woodlands Checkpoint as a romantic railway station evoking the splendours of rail travel’s golden age. Frankly, this 1990s station resembles an airport in décor and atmosphere. But no matter – for this station is the starting point for the Eastern & Oriental Express, a sleeper service which echoes the luxury of that famous European train the Venice Simplon Orient Express, though with a distinctive Asian style..." Describing two impressive rail journeys: one running between Thailand and Singapore via Malaysia; the other across New Zealand. [Find the book here]
	Just the ticket: The best new rail journeys around the world Traveller, 7 September 2024 "Europe’s renewed affair with long-distance train routes continues apace, and this time the destinations being linked are popular big cities: Paris and Berlin. It was in December last year that the French and German capitals were connected, with great acclaim, by sleeper train for the first time in nine years. The next step will be the start of direct high-speed daytime services between the two cities..." Describing ten upcoming developments in rail travel across Europe, North America, Asia and Australia. [Read the full article here]
	Seize the day (five items) Paradise, July-September 2024 "The Hong Kong Food tour takes a maximum of nine tour members on a taste-filled adventure beginning in the Sheung Wan district of Hong Kong Island, also covering elements of local culture that illuminate the food scene. Over four hours in Sheung Wan, Central and Wan Chai, the tour group enjoys a dim sum breakfast at a restaurant, that still serves its dishes via trolley service and wonton noodles at a shop dating back to the 1960s and recommended by the famous Michelin restaurant guide..." Describing five fascinating walking tours in Sydney, Brisbane, Cairns, Singapore and Hong Kong. [Read the full article here]
	Spectacular scenery is just a part of these five new stylish rail journeys Traveller, 26 May 2024 "When a new tourist train is devised, its makers tend to reach for Victorian-era designs from the golden age of railways. Not so the designers of Japan’s Tobu Railway, who have crafted a beautiful train with a unique style: the Spacia X. Running between Tokyo’s Asakusa Station and the Nikko region with its World Heritage-listed sites and popular thermal baths, this train’s sleekly curving carriages have a futuristic vibe, but it’s more complex than that..." Describing the highlights of five new or improved trains, operating in Italy, Australia, Norway, Japan, and Laos. [Read the full article here]
	Parting is such sweet sorrow Traveller, 27 April 2024 "In the first week of the New Year I picked up a brand-new passport. Almost ten years had passed in the company of my old one, and it was time to renew. But as I delighted in the crisp, unblemished potential of my new passport, I felt an unexpected fondness for its slightly worn predecessor. We’d been through a lot together over the previous decade, and the assortment of stamps spread through its pages recalled the most memorable border crossings..." Discussing the fond memories prompted by an expired passport, of travels in Ukraine, Japan, Malaysia, South Africa, Liechtenstein, and Fiji. [Read the full article here]
	Ditch the checked bag: How to pack for a holiday bringing only carry-on Traveller, 11 May 2023 "Lean in close, for I’m going make a confession: I, too, used to check luggage into an aircraft’s hold. Phew, that’s a weight off. But it was a long time ago, almost in the previous century. I remember clearly the last time I checked in a suitcase for a long-haul flight, and the lightbulb moment when I realised it had been a mistake. Standing on a steep hill leading up from a bus stop in the Italian city of Siena in 2001, wearing a backpack while carrying a suitcase on a hot humid day, I thought 'There must be a better way than this.' And so there was..." Explaining my system of light packing, with reference to travel experiences in Italy and Japan. [Read the full article here]
	Budget Airlines and COVID-19: It's Time for Cheap Air Fares to Die Traveller, 26 October 2020 "Since travel shut down around March, I've been gobsmacked to see people pay good money to either take a joy flight to nowhere, or – even worse – to dine on a plane that's not leaving the tarmac. When I expressed this amazement on social media, many agreed that flying was the absolute worst part of travel, and the one good thing about COVID-19 lockdown was not having to go near an airport..." Arguing for an end to cheap fares, in order to combat climate change and overtourism (with a reference to an Asian attraction). [Read the full article here]
	A Dream of Trains **The New Daily, 3 June 2020** "Locked down in my apartment in Melbourne’s CBD, I dreamt of trains. For the past decade I’ve increasingly written about rail travel, drawn more and more into a love of trains. It doesn’t matter what trains they are – luxury 'rail cruises' are impressive, but so to me is a berth in a weathered old-school sleeper car or a seat on any intercity train..." Discussing the delights of rail travel, with examples - including train journeys in Asia. [Read the full article here]
	Fukuoka: The Japanese City You’ve Been Missing Out On Escape, 6 February 2020 "'This was the first international city in Japan,' says my guide Mr Shinohara, referring to Fukuoka’s medieval trade with China and Korea. As the city’s harbour faces the Korea Strait, beyond which lies all of Asia, that’s easy to understand. What’s more difficult to comprehend is why Fukuoka is so little-known to western travellers. As Japan’s sixth-largest city and an ancient port, Fukuoka has much to offer..." Exploring the food and cultural attractions of Fukuoka, Japan. [Read the full article here]
	Why Don't Hotels Let You Open Your Room's Windows? Traveller, 19 December 2019 "I hate staying in hotels where the windows don't open. If I have to leave the air-conditioning on for airflow, I end up feeling dehydrated, as if suffering from a hangover. If I leave the air-con off I feel suffocated, and develop a different kind of headache. Either way it's awful. Aren't hotels supposed to be a 'home away from home'? What home has windows that can't be opened? Why do they do it?" Having a rant about hotel room windows which can't be opened, referencing hotels in Hong Kong and the UK. [Read the full article here]
	Into the DMZ **Active Retirees, October 2019** "My first glimpse of North Korea comes on a beautiful day, as I gaze across a broad river. It looks like peaceful farming country over there. Then I hear the unmistakeable sound of gunfire below us. I’m suddenly alert to the perils of this place, on the ceasefire line of a war that never officially ended. 'No problem,' says our guide. 'It’s just South Korean soldiers training. Nothing to worry about.' Well, maybe. But it’s a timely reminder of the unresolved tension between the Koreas..." Joining a tour from Seoul to the demilitarised zone on the border of North and South Korea. [Subscribe to read the full article here]
	Hot Food List 2019 Traveller, 10 August 2019 "Ramen is a serious business in Japan, and even more so in the outlets of Ichiran. On entering, the diner orders a serve of Fukuoka's famous Hakata ramen from a vending machine, tailoring the ingredients. Then the noodle dish with its slow-cooked pork broth is delivered from behind a screen to your seat in a solo alcove. Sit, slurp, and contemplate the infinite as you enjoy the flavour..." Detailing three food-related experiences in Japan, South Korea and Liechtenstein (among those of various writers). [Read the full article here]
	By Reservation Only: Seoul's Museum of Century-old Wooden Treasures Traveller, 31 July 2019 "Seoul is a UNESCO Creative City of Design, and has plenty of blingy buildings to prove it. An exhibition of furniture sounds dowdy by comparison, and the Korea Furniture Museum plays hard to get. Perched in a residential area in the hilly north of the city, it only allows access via prior reservation on a guided tour, and there are only four English-language tours a day. I'm getting the message it doesn't accept any old riff-raff within the premises; a tourist trap this is not..." Discovering a historic furniture collection in Seoul, South Korea. [Read the full article here]
	Model Citizens in a Model City Traveller, 30 March 2019 "From where I'm standing, I can see the Empire State Building looming over the Statue of Liberty. On the other side of the harbour rises the unmistakeable red form of the Tokyo Tower, and in the distance I can see Taiwan's lofty Taipei 101 building. I'm not having delusions, and I'm not dreaming, though Tobu World Square does have dreamlike qualities. This theme park in the Nikko region north of Tokyo is a fine example of the Japanese obsession with detail..." Enjoying the distinctive attractions of the Nikko region of Japan. [Read the full article here]
	A Magic Bullet to Busan **Traveller, 7 March 2019** "As I enter Seoul Station, I have half an eye out for zombies. A week before flying to the South Korean capital I watched Train to Busan, the excellent 2016 movie about a train journey overtaken by a plague of the undead. It managed to both evoke horror, and depict Korail's high-speed rail network in a good light. In the midst of the action the rail company's staff were unfailingly cool under pressure (except when turned into zombies themselves, of course)..." Catching high-speed trains from Seoul to Busan, South Korea. [Read the full article here]
	A Seriously Multicultural Range of Cuisines **Traveller, 19 February 2019** "A guitarist strums in a corner of the restaurant, singing Portuguese folk songs. At a table near him, a waiter is creating a spectacle as she flambés a dish over a gas stove. On the walls hang paintings depicting traditional village scenes, beneath colourful ceramic ornaments and a model boat. This eatery couldn't be more Portuguese if it tried – but we're not in Portugal. This is Taipa Village in the autonomous Chinese territory of Macau, and the restaurant is called Antonio..." Exploring the towns of Taipa and Coloane in a quieter part of Macau, China. [Read the full article here]
	Full Steam Ahead Paradise, January-February 2019 "To a train fan there’s nothing more exciting than the hiss of a steam locomotive, and the peal of its whistle. Even more so when it’s about to bear you through a picturesque area of Japan. I’m about to board the SL Taiju, a loco which worked on the northern island of Hokkaido from 1941 to 1974. Recently granted a second life in the Nikko region north of Tokyo, it runs 35-minute trips between the hot springs town of Kinugawa Onsen and Shimo-Imaichi..." Exploring the Nikko region of Japan for the inflight magazine of Air Niugini. [Read the full article here]
	Get Served by Robots, and Look into the Future **Escape, 29 December 2018** "Who would you rather check in to your hotel with? A robot or a velociraptor? And would the choice be easier if the toothy dinosaur was wearing a pillbox hat? That’s the dilemma which confronts me at the Henn-na Hotel, at Huis Ten Bosch near Nagasaki. Huis Ten Bosch’s un-Japanese name can be explained by the fact that it’s a theme park containing a perfect replica of a 17th century Dutch town. But more of that strangeness later..." Checking into a curious robot-run hotel at a Dutch theme park near Nagasaki, Japan. [Read the full article here]
	Best Moments in Travel for 2018 (item re the Golden Gai district, Tokyo) **Traveller, 22 December 2018** "I wander along the maze of alleys that comprises Tokyo's Golden Gai district, an atmospheric enclave of tiny bars illuminated by gaudy signs. My goal is Deathmatch in Hell, a heavy metal themed bar at the far end. Perched on a stool, I marvel at the blood red interior, decorated with horror movie posters, dolls of the Blues Brothers, a Star Wars stormtrooper, and a big golden skull..." One item about Tokyo, Japan, in a list of special moments experienced by various travel writers. [Read the full article here]
	How to Get into Hot Water in South Korea **Traveller, 3 December 2018** "There's nothing delicate about a body scrub at a jjimjilbang, the South Korean institution which is a cross between a traditional bath house and a Western-style spa. Though it may sound like a spot of pampering, in practice a scrub is a vigorous (and occasionally painful) procedure – the masseur turns me one way then the other, scraping me down ruthlessly with a roughened cloth. This is followed by a forceful shoulder massage. Nothing about this experience is elegant, but it gets the job done..." Soaking in the spa culture of Seoul and Busan, South Korea. [Read the full article here]
	Airline Review: Asiana Airlines Business Traveller, 2 November 2018 "There's a sign on the bulkhead designating this as 'Business Smartium Class', which denotes this style of Asiana business seat: each a small cubicle neatly interlocked with those in front and behind. They alternate between seats opening directly onto the aisle, and those with a shelf between seat and aisle. I've deliberately chosen one of the latter on the right hand side of the plane, as I like the cosy contained space it creates, with an element of privacy..." Reviewing the Business Class experience on a flight from Sydney to Seoul, South Korea. [Read the full article here]
	Lonely Planet: Amazing Train Journeys (section on Eastern & Oriental Express) October 2018 "Tracing a route between the busy cities of Bangkok and Singapore, the Eastern & Oriental Express is an appealing way to sample the sights of South-east Asia. Passengers experience a little of everything on the two to three-night journey: luxurious comfort within finely-crafted décor; quality dining with a choice of Asian and European dishes; beautiful scenery as the tropical landscape slips past the train windows; and cultural knowledge..." Describing a luxurious way to travel between Bangkok and Singapore by rail. [Find the book here]
	Ten Australian Cafes Around the World **Traveller, 18 October 2018** "Sydney chef Bill Granger's name adorns a chain of cafes across Japan, with four in the capital. The branch on the upmarket Omotesando shopping strip resembles an Aussie cafe lofted into the sky, with loads of natural light, pine tables and sand-coloured tiles. It's a busy space full of Tokyo-ites enjoying sweetcorn fritters, ricotta hotcakes, and the Fresh Aussie, featuring gravlax and poached eggs..." Detailing Aussie-style cafes in locations around the globe, including Japan, China, Singapore and South Korea. [Read the full article here]
	Gone Shopping Paradise, September-October 2018 "'I use real pearl because it’s not just for one season. Good things last longer.' Designer Coney Ko is talking about the jewellery she creates in her compact Hong Kong shop Coney & Co, but she could equally be referring to the design hub it’s housed within: PMQ. The name of this creative complex has been shortened from its original title: Police Married Quarters. Constructed in 1951 under British administration, it's now part of the arty SoHo district..." Visiting a Hong Kong design hub for the inflight magazine of Air Niugini. [Read the full article here]
	Enter the (Flying) Dragon roundtheworldflights.com, 28 February 2018 "The first time I flew out of Hong Kong International Airport (HKG), I was lucky enough to have access to the Cathay Pacific lounge known as The Pier. Walking along its length, from room to room, feels like taking a stroll through the opening shot of an arthouse movie. There’s a dedicated noodle room, a tea room, bars and relaxation rooms, and at the very end there’s a dimly-lit space dotted with comfy reclined chairs that are more like beds..." Detailing the highlights of Hong Kong International Airport, China. [Read the full article here]
	I Travelled the World Without (Much) Cash *The Age & Sydney Morning Herald*, 31 January 2018 "It was at Vancouver's Museum of Anthropology that I finally had to stump up some cash. Since arriving in the Canadian city two days before, I'd been paying for everything via my phone using Apple Pay. It had been such a successful strategy that I still had the C$100 I'd arrived with in cash. Now, however, I needed to hire a locker before I enjoyed the institution's spectacular collection of First Nations totem poles. To do that, I had to break a note and put a Canadian quarter into the slot..." Trying to pay for everything using contactless payment methods in Hong Kong, Canada, the USA & the UK. [Read the full article here]
	Airline Review: Cathay Pacific Premium Economy Traveller, 17 November 2017 "The first thing I notice is that this is a snugger premium economy than others I've flown. As there are eight seats across in this class (compared to nine down the back of the plane), my seat is wider than those in economy but only by a small amount. In fact, the fixed armrests mean that the space available for my hips is similar to that in economy. Having said that, I'm definitely more comfortable than the folks in the cheap seats..." Reviewing the Premium Economy experience on a flight from Melbourne to Hong Kong. [Read the full article here]
	Hong Kong's New Hotspot Paradise, July-August 2017 "Hong Kong’s new South Island MTR line opened at the end of last year, reaching Wong Chuk Hang. Not a moment too soon for the inquisitive traveller, as the former industrial district has been gradually transforming into a fascinating hotspot of art, design and food. In the 20th century this was an area crammed with numerous factories. The empty space became a playground for creative types. As a result there’s still a measure of grit, but also plenty of cutting-edge venues to explore..." Exploring a cool Hong Kong 'hood for the inflight magazine of Air Niugini. [Read the full article here]
	Airline Review: Cathay Pacific Economy Traveller, 15 May 2017 "This is a brand-new aircraft which only recently started on the Melbourne-Hong Kong run, so all the fixtures and fittings are in top condition. Though seat width is snug, the leg room is surprisingly generous in economy - I can extend my legs beneath the seat in front without my knees coming close to bumping the seat pocket..." Reviewing economy class on an Airbus A350 flight from Melbourne to Hong Kong. [Read the full article here]
	Vegetarian Food in Hong Kong Traveller, 27 March 2017 "'Every culture has its own vegetarian food,' says Peggy Chan. Peggy's restaurant, Grassroots Pantry, is the first stop on my mission in Hong Kong. I'm not in the city to defeat rogue magicians (like Dr Strange) or battle gangsters (in Jackie Chan style), nor even to tackle an assassin with a golden gun (a la James Bond). No, my self-appointed task is to eat vegetarian and well for a whole day, in the restaurants of this food-mad city. In a place which is famous for its meaty dishes, such as snake soup, is this even possible?" Eating vegetarian dishes in restaurants throughout Hong Kong, China. [Read the full article here]
	Singapore Art Deco Walking Tour Traveller, 21 October 2016 "'It's not technically a fire escape, it's a boyfriend escape,' says Lip Sin, pointing to the stairs on an apartment building in Tiong Bahru. 'A lot of rich businessmen housed their mistresses here.' It seems Singapore is not the buttoned-up puritanical state it's often depicted as; or at least it wasn't back in the 1930s. That's when this residential neighbourhood was built on a reclaimed swamp, with graceful art deco buildings replacing squatters' huts and rutted, muddy roads..." Taking a free walking tour of the attractive art deco district of Tiong Bahru, Singapore. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Top 10: Comedy Clubs Around the World Traveller, 7 October 2016 "The supposedly uptight island state may not seem an obvious stop on the laughter circuit, but since 2010 this weekly comedy night founded by Pakistani stand-up comedian Umar Rana has featured upcoming locals to great success. Masala alumni have gone on to success in international tours, so this is the place to spot Asian comic talents on the rise..." Listing great comedy venues in the USA, Canada, UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Singapore. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Going Light Paradise, May-June 2016 "Are you up for a travel challenge? Here it is: could you travel anywhere in the world, taking only cabin luggage with you? It may sound impossible, but it isn’t. For years, I’ve been honing my approach to packing light, to the point where I only ever take a single bag. The upside? I zip through airports, often bypassing the check-in desks entirely if the airline offers mobile check-in. When I leave the flight at the end of the trip, I can walk straight out of the airport..." Explaining how to pack light, including for a business trip to Singapore. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Chants Encounter Issimo Magazine, 28 March 2016 "The most memorable moment of my Korean temple stay involves a giant drum. We’ve been led to an open-sided pavilion supported by intricately painted green pillars, to witness an ancient tradition. Standing in front of a vast drum, a robed Buddhist monk beats its surface with precision, producing a rhythmic beat. My eye, however, is caught by the monk standing behind him, recording the performance on a tablet computer..." Staying overnight at an ancient Buddhist temple in South Korea. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Cats vs Dogs in Seoul's Hippest Neighbourhood Traveller, 16 February 2016 "Are you a cat person or a dog person? For many years, that was a question that many inhabitants of East Asia's most densely populated cities couldn't answer. Then, in 1998, the world's first cat café opened in Taiwan. The concept spread to Japan, where it became a craze, then onward to the rest of the world. Seoul was no exception. But in the South Korean capital I'm faced with an additional option: a dog café..." Investigating a cat cafe and a dog cafe in the Hongdae district of Seoul, South Korea. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Next Stop: Nature The Sun-Herald, 31 January 2016 "On a warm Friday afternoon, my Singaporean friend Walter Lim and I walk along a broad green path which once echoed to the clatter of carriages. Now the tracks are gone, and in its place is the Rail Corridor – a walking trail lined by tropical foliage. With the rails removed, what remains is a 24-kilometre green corridor. For now, at least, it's a basic walking trail, and we're taking the opportunity to appreciate its undeveloped simplicity..." Strolling along an abandoned rail corridor, now a walking trail in Singapore. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Airline Review: Qantas Economy Traveller, 7 January 2016 "I've selected lunch using Qantas' Select on Q-Eat service, which enables passengers to order online before boarding. It's a big plus, guaranteeing you'll receive your meal choice; you can even see an image before locking it in. I've gone for the vegie option, which on this flight is stir-fried tofu with black funghi, rice noodles and soy beans..." Reviewing the economy experience on a flight from Melbourne to Singapore. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	The 60 Best Travel Finds of 2015 (five items by me) The Sun-Herald, 27 December 2015 "For over a century, drinkers at the luxurious Raffles Hotel in Singapore have shivered over the story of the tiger who was discovered beneath the hotel's billiard room in 1902. Now they have something with which to toast the terrifying memory: The Stray Tiger. Part of the hotel's Timeline series of cocktails based on historic events, it's a $S27 wild combination of white rum, Cointreau, vermouth, lime juice, absinthe and lemongrass foam. Chin chin!" I detail five of 60 interesting attractions, in Los Angeles, Munich, Singapore and Melbourne. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Airline Review: Jetstar Asia Economy Traveller, 20 December 2015 "'Would you like us to sing a song for you?' asks a flight attendant jokingly when I inquire about the entertainment options. This is one of those rare flights where the passengers provide their own amusement, mostly in the form of phones and tablets. I while away the time with an ebook..." Reviewing the economy experience on a flight from Singapore to Bangkok. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Express Yourself **The Sun-Herald, 26 July 2015** "It didn't take long for Sinatra to show up. I may be sitting in the beautifully appointed piano bar aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express, a luxury train rattling along the rails of Thailand, but New York, New York is being crooned by the Singaporean pianist. Seated near him is a cluster of passengers, still in suits and finery from dinner, singing self-consciously under our breath while clutching drinks. I'll have to give that song a more determined effort later. For the moment, however, there is plenty to explore..." Riding the rails from Bangkok to Singapore aboard a luxury train. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Only in Seoul **Paradise, July 2015** "Mostly concrete, glass and steel – and just a little bit boring. That’s how many people think of Seoul, dismissing the South Korean capital as lacking texture and personality. They are, however, wrong. Though Seoul remains the centre of the nation’s busy economy, it also contains many quirky corners and distinctive attractions. Here are some highlights..." Examining the South Korean capital's quirks for the inflight magazine of Air Niugini. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Singapore's Coffee Revolution The Sunday Age, 31 May 2015 "'Everyone loves to go out drinking coffee and having brunch. Brunch is like a sport here; on a Sunday we have queues down the road.' If this sounds familiar, it is – and it isn't. For cafe owner Harry Grover isn't talking about the brunching multitudes of Melbourne or Sydney. As we sit within Common Man Coffee Roasters, he's explaining how Australia's indie coffee scene has caught on in Singapore. 'It's exploded here, and a lot of that came from Aussie influence...'" Investigating the coffee scene in Singapore. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Edgy Art Captivates Asia The Age, 2 May 2015 "'When I was at school I didn't have the option of art history,' says Audrey Yeo, owner of Singapore contemporary art gallery Yeo Workshop. 'So for my generation, it's something we're all catching up on very quickly. We love it, obviously, and the Singaporean public is hungry for it, but it's not something that I had the option to do when I was a kid.' Yeo's experience encapsulates the rapidly growing popularity of contemporary art in East and South-East Asia..." Surveying the contemporary art scene in Singapore. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Flight Test: Malaysia Airlines Economy Traveller (The Age & Sydney Morning Herald), 21 March 2015 "As you expect from a long-haul economy class seat, 38D seems very snug when the armrests are down, and there isn't a lot of room for my long legs. However, the flight is far from full and I've scored an entire empty row of four seats – the poor man's lie-flat bed! Up go the armrests and I have plenty of space to spread out. Pity it isn't a night flight, though in the middle of the flight I do stretch out full-length for a while and have a snooze..." Reviewing the economy experience on a flight from Kuala Lumpur to Melbourne. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Converts' Guide: Long-Distance Train Travel **The Sun-Herald, 15 March 2015** "There are many types of long-distance trains, from regularly scheduled services to those that resemble luxury cruise liners. What they have in common is ever-changing scenery. A train is a unique mode of transport, akin to a small town on wheels; always in contact with the world outside, but also slightly separate. It's difficult to get bored as the entire planet passes by your window: people, farms, forests, dramatic landscapes, and the normally hidden backyards of vibrant cities..." Promoting the benefits of long-distance rail travel in one of a set of travel essays; including trains travelling through Asia. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Metro Marvels (One item authored by me) **The Age & Sydney Morning Herald**, 29 November 2014 "South Korea's capital has thrown off its over-earnest stereotype to reveal a city with a sense of style and fun. Its identity as a UNESCO City of Design was underlined in 2014 with the opening of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a spectacular building resembling a vast silver spaceship. Containing a museum, a design market and restaurants on the site of a former baseball park and historic fort, it's a compelling destination for both locals and visitors..." One item covering Seoul, South Korea, as part of a selection of top cities to visit in 2015. My items available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Best Literary Walking Tours Lonely Planet's Best in Travel 2015, October 2014 "There’s no better way to pay tribute to your favourite author or characters than to follow in their footsteps via these entertaining tours..." Listing ten distinctive literary walking tours in locales across the world, including the UK, USA, Sweden, Ireland, France, Romania, China and Australia. This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com. Not available for republication. [Read the full article here]
	First World Problems: Luxury Guests' Gripes in the World's Worst Cities **Fairfax Traveller, 12 August 2014** "'No man is an island,' wrote the Elizabethan poet John Donne. But this may not be true of hotels. Every traveller knows that accommodation can be either a reflection of the city around it, or a refuge from its challenges. A hotel can seem like an embassy from another world – with a carefully orchestrated serenity aided by decor, light, sound and even scent. Nowhere is this contrast stronger than in the world’s 'least liveable' cities..." Contrasting travellers' online hotel reviews with cities they're visiting in Africa and Asia. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Seoul: Food & Culture **Serendib, August 2014** "If I've learned one thing on my first day in Seoul, it's this - never order topokki just for one. This popular South Korean dish is undoubtedly delicious. A big stew of rice cakes, fish cakes, boiled eggs, chilli sauce, noodles and vegetables, it's been bubbling away at the stove on my table for several minutes. However, it's impossible for me to finish more than half the amount in the cooking bowl..." Exploring the vibrant food and cultural attractions of the South Korean capital. Not available for republication. [Read the full article here]
	Cafes of Hongdae Get Up & Go, Winter 2014 "Seoul is both a busy commercial centre and a UNESCO City of Design. But look beyond the glass and steel towers at its centre, and you’ll find neighbourhoods of winding alleyways and human-scale buildings, where the South Korean capital comes alive. One of the most vibrant districts is Hongdae, centred on Hongik University and other nearby institutions devoted to art and design. It’s a happening area of dining, live music and fashion..." Discovering the quirky cafes of this arty district of Seoul, South Korea. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Fifty Things We Love About Travel Right Now (Five items authored by me) **The Age & Sydney Morning Herald**, 28 June 2014 "It's always been easy to figure out how to use public transport in a foreign city - as long as it ran on rails. Train and tram routes were easy to decipher, but local buses remained an impenetrable mystery. As more and more cities around the world make their transport data available to Google Maps, however, that puzzle has largely been solved. Tap in a query about getting from A to B, and the app will tell you which buses to catch and where to transfer. It opens up a whole new way of getting around in the company of locals..." Five items of fifty, covering Los Angeles, Seoul, Ballarat, and useful travel technology. My items available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Escape the Concrete Jungle: Pockets of the Past in Modern Seoul **www.lonelyplanet.com, 26 June 2014** "Concrete. Glass. Steel. That’s the common perception of Seoul. And when you consider the damage done to the city during the Korean War, followed by its rapid industrialisation, it’s not surprising that the first thing you notice about the South Korean capital is its modernity. But believe it or not, there’s more to Seoul than shiny corporate towers. Here and there, pockets of its 2000-year-old past are tucked between 21st century structures..." Detailing the quieter nooks and crannies of the South Korean capital. Not available for republication. [Read the full article here]
	Design Landmark Bends the Rules The Age, 21 June 2014 "'Zaha Hadid is famous for her irregularly shaped buildings,' says Helen, my South Korean guide to Seoul’s new Dongdaemun Design Plaza. 'She likes to emancipate buildings from right angles and T-squares.' She certainly does. As I gaze up at the new centrepiece of this UNESCO City of Design, there’s not an angle to be seen in the British architect’s extraordinary creation. The vast lip of the building curves above us, like a slowly breaking wave or a strange metallic tongue..." Exploring a stunning new design precinct in Seoul, South Korea. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Flight Test: Cathay Pacific The Age & Sydney Morning Herald, 14 June 2014 "On this afternoon flight, drinks are served after departure and it's a gin and tonic (with Bombay Sapphire, naturally) for me, thanks. For my late lunch starter I choose the Iberico ham with smoked paprika chickpeas, followed by a main of lamb korma with turmeric rice and vegetable jalfrezi. The entree is presented more attractively than the main (the latter looks much like any airline meal, though in a ceramic dish), but both are flavoursome..." Reviewing the business class experience aboard the Hong Kong-based airline. Available for republication (print only). [Read the full article here]
	Bare Necessities **The Sun-Herald, 8 June 2014** "I know there's compulsory nudity involved, but I'm not sure when it begins. Having entered the men-only fifth floor of the Dragon Hill Spa, I've followed a couple of locals into a locker area. Thank god for smartphones - I pretend to be checking mine while waiting to see what my unwitting companions do next. As I inspect imaginary text messages, they strip off completely, then wander back to the foyer. OK. When in Rome... or Seoul. I strip, then wander cautiously through the foyer..." Exploring the world of the traditional Korean bathhouse in Seoul, South Korea. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Korean Food On Foot The Sunday Age, 18 May 2014 "It's when tour guide Christina starts filling shot glasses, then stacking them inside a larger glass, that I realise this may not be your average food walking tour. We're sitting in an alleyway, surrounded by Seoul office workers having a bite after work, and our guide is constructing a local aperitif known as 'sweet after bitter'. A shot glass of cola is topped by a shot glass of the Korean liquor soju, then the two are suspended within a glass of local beer. Then it's bottoms up..." Joining a lively walking food tour in the capital of South Korea. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Sin Central The Sunday Age, 2 June 2013 "The White Temple is a remarkable modern interpretation of the traditional Buddhist temple. The vision of artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, it's a unique blend of classic elements and pop culture. The main building is spectacular. Bristling with mirrored ridges, it's a blinding vision in white. I cross a sea of sinners' hands thrusting up towards the bridge, past more dynamic figures, and then I'm in the tranquil interior, with its statue of Buddha..." Joining a fascinating new 'Green Route' tour across northern Thailand. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	A Peculiar Play Land International Traveller, May 2013 "Watched over by these surreal inhabitants, there’s something other-worldly and fairy-tale about the building – as if the witch in the Hansel and Gretel tale had fancied a warmer climate, and set up shop in Thailand. I half expect a wizened old lady beckoning me in with a gnarled finger, suggesting I take a bite of the marzipan architecture on the way. Inside, however, it’s simply delightful. Though a million toys is probably an exaggeration, there must be thousands of them within these walls..." Journeying into nostalgia at a toy museum in Ayutthaya, Thailand. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Beyond the Taj Mahal: The Other Tombs of Agra **www.lonelyplanet.com, 4 April 2013** "It’s difficult to be alone in India, where people throng every road and public space. It’s even harder to be alone in Agra, home to the Taj Mahal. However, there’s more to the attractions of Agra than the Taj. For centuries the city was the capital of the mighty Mughal Empire, whose Muslim rulers held sway over much of modern-day India and Pakistan. As a result, the city is littered with impressive tombs erected by or in memory of its powerful emperors..." Visiting tombs beyond the Taj Mahal in Agra, India. Not available for republication. [Read the full article here]
	A World Full of Cheap Thrills **The Age & Sydney Morning Herald**, 16 March 2013 "To be an Australian traveller is to be obsessed by currency exchange rates, and certain cities have a reputation among Aussies for their crippling expense. But with the Aussie dollar's dramatic rise, things must have changed. To test this theory, I visited Lonely Planet's Melbourne HQ to thumb through guidebooks used by travellers ten years ago, comparing prices while factoring in inflation. What I found should put a smile on every Australian traveller's face..." Exploring the effect of the Australian dollar's rise on attractions in London, New York, Tokyo and Reykjavik. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	World's Most Expensive Cities Not So Bad **Fairfax Traveller, 7 February 2013** "They were bitter, strong, smooth… and extremely expensive at £18.50 each. In 2008, with the Australian dollar buying 48 pence, that worked out to $38.50 per cocktail. Ouch. I consoled myself that I was doing much better than I would have five years earlier when the dollar had been buying only 35p; at that rate, each Vesper would have cost $52.85. At the other extreme is the exchange rate of today, currently hovering around 66p. Assuming the cocktail cost the same in pounds, that Vesper would now go for $28..." Examining how the Australian dollar's rise has made travel cheaper than ten years ago in London, New York, Tokyo and Reykjavik. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]
	Enter the Dragon: Exploring Bangkok’s Chinatown **www.lonelyplanet.com, 30 November 2012** "The dragon, in this case, is Thanon Yaowarat, the main thoroughfare which threads through Bangkok’s Chinatown. Its head, say locals, is the Chinatown Gate at the road’s eastern end. The dragon’s body then stretches west until it ends with the tip of its tail dipping into the waters of the Rob Krung canal. Be aware: this is not a sleepy dragon, dozing in its cave on top of a mound of treasure. Yaowarat Road is an active beast, exhibiting plenty of colour and movement..." Profiling the alleyways, food and shopping of the Chinatown district of Bangkok, Thailand. Not available for republication. [Read the full article here]
	Oddest Food Museums Lonely Planet's Best in Travel 2013, October 2012 List of distinctive food museums in locales across the world (including three in the USA, two in Germany, two in Japan, one in Hungary, one in Belgium, and one in South Korea). This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com.
	Thai Toy Story The Sunday Age, 3 June 2012 "I have an idea for the next Terminator movie: a cohort of tin robots marches across the earth, its colourful leaders backed by dozens of troops arrayed in black armour, with bulging red eyes and little looped antennas on their heads. At least, that’s what I see when I look into one of the many glass cases in the Million Toy Museum in Ayutthaya, Thailand..." Exploring a vast and delightful museum of toys in historic Ayutthaya, Thailand. Available for republication (print only). Images available.
	Zapiekanka & Daulat Ki Chaat Lonely Planet: The World's Best Street Food, March 2012 I provide history, descriptions and recipes for two street food treats - Zapiekanka from Poland and Daulat Ki Chaat from India. This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com. Not available for republication.
	The Hot Seat The Sunday Age, 1 January 2012 "The suburbs of Delhi, India seem like a strange place to find the throne of King Louis XIII of France. Though it’s not a throne in the strict sense; it’s a replica of a grand combination of chair and toilet that the monarch had made in the 17th century. Ever a busy man, the monarch used it to attend to his courtiers and, er, other royal business at the same time..." Making a visit to the Sulabh International Museum of Toilets in Delhi, India. Available for republication (print only). Images available.
	Beachside Bliss Air Mail, Summer 2011 (Air Australia inflight magazine) "'All the world’s a stage,' wrote William Shakespeare, but he might as well have said 'All the world’s a beach.' Through Asia, Australia and the Pacific there are beaches of every type, hosting every attraction. Whether you’re after a rest, a meal, a party or a spot of retail action, there’s a sandy shore out there for you. Here’s a selection of the best..." Detailing a number of fine beaches, including two each in Bali and Phuket. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available.
	Fit for the King Medical Observer, 2 September 2011 "When the hotel opened as the Railway Hotel in the 1920s, it attracted Bangkok’s well-to-do to what had previously been an unexceptional fishing village. Impressed with the new seaside resort and the contrast it provided with the busy capital, King Prajadhipok ordered the construction of a palace here, aptly named Wang Klai Kang Won ('Far from Worries')." Visiting a beach resort town long favoured by the royal family of Thailand.
	Fangtastic! The World’s Best Vampire-spotting Locations www.lonelyplanet.com, 9 August 2011 Revealing several ways of encountering vampires in places around the globe (including locations in Romania, the UK, France, the USA, Costa Rica and Indonesia). Not available for republication. [Read the full article here]
	And for You, Sir? The Sunday Age, 12 June 2011 "Within the grand art deco Imperial Hotel is this opulent fever-dream of the British Empire. It’s dominated by a vast horseshoe-shaped timber bar covered by a glass canopy bearing art nouveau designs. Sepia photographs of maharajahs adorn pillars, and along one wall is a large painting of an idealised scene of Indian riverbank life. One senses that this place was as much an anachronistic fantasy when it was built as it is now..." Investigating the colourful bar scene of Delhi, India. Available for republication (print only). Images available.
	Walking Old Delhi With a Local NineMSN Travel, April 2011 "There's only one way to really discover Old Delhi, the 17th century city laid out by Moghul emperor and Taj Mahal creator Shah Jahan: on two feet. Though the government of India is centred on the geometric streets of New Delhi, Old Delhi has more historic appeal. Off pulsing Chandni Chowk, the district's incredibly busy main street, are dozens of narrow alleyways leading to shopping precincts and eateries." Taking a heritage walking tour through the fascinating streets of Old Delhi.
	Soi Tasty The Sunday Age, 6 March 2011 "Ah, food. It doesn’t take long for any Bangkok conversation to turn to the local cuisine. The frequent visitor will have eaten with backpackers on the Khao San Road, taken noodles in Chinatown, tried samosas in Little India, dined upmarket in Sukhumvit and sampled the streets stall dishes of Banglamphu. Been there, eaten that. But here comes Bangkok’s latest hot eat street: Soi Ari." Exploring an up-and-coming restaurant district of Bangkok, Thailand. Available for republication (print only). Images available.
	Best Vampire Spotting Locales & Top Ten Historical Re-enactments Lonely Planet's Best in Travel 2011, November 2010 Two lists of distinctive travel experiences in locales across the world (including one in Indonesia, and one in Japan). This book can be purchased online from Amazon.com. Not available for republication.
	Mixed Spice Medical Observer, 20 August 2010 "Walking from the square to the waterfront, I stand under a lone palm tree and gaze out over the strait. I can’t see the island of Sumatra, lying just beyond the horizon, but it’s easy to imagine the spice traders of bygone days threading their ships through this body of water, braving pirates and treacherous weather in order to be the first to land their cargoes in far-flung ports." Investigating the diverse history and culture of Melaka, Malaysia. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available.
	Rubbing away the Stresses of the Day Escape, 4 April 2010 (News Ltd's Sunday travel section) "I try something I’d not previously heard of: tui na, a Chinese massage that applies pressure to the traditional acupuncture points. My masseur is a Chinese-Malaysian woman of slight stature, but surprising physical strength. At the end of the hour she takes hold of my head, says 'relax', then twists it sharply till it clicks. Then in the other direction as well. I feel strangely flexible after all that." Testing out three styles of massage in Malaysia. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available.
	Life in the Slow Lane Jetstar Asia Magazine, February 2010 "Bangkok is an exciting and vibrant city at all hours of the day, especially here in the commercial centre where gigantic shopping malls line busy roads, overshadowed by the Skytrain elevated railway. But is it possible to discover a more contemplative side to the Thai capital? Having set out on foot through the humid morning haze from my hotel, I’m determined to give it a try." Exploring the quieter back streets of Bangkok, Thailand.
	The Music of Old Shanghai Sunday Herald Sun, 24 January 2010 "As I listen to the music, the waitress returns to top up my jasmine tea with boiling water. Then, to my intense surprise, the duo begins playing a version of Click Go the Shears. I glance up, catch the erhu player’s eye, and we exchange discreet smiles. Like the decor of the tea house, which features a jumble of items from Shanghai’s 20th century past, it seems the music selection is drawn from a variety of sources across the years." Tasting tea, dumplings and the historic past in Shanghai, China. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available.
	A River Somewhere... in Sarawak The West Australian, 17 October 2009 "It’s time for the moment I’ve been dreading: getting out on the river. I’m a novice on the water, being the kind of traveller who hangs around cities investigating art galleries and bars, so there’s some tension in the air as we walk down to the sandy shore below the village. Luckily, I’ll have the able Ivy to guide us safely over the admittedly tiny set of rapids we’ll encounter en route." A kayaking journey in the state of Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available.
	Wild & Free Jetstar Asia Magazine, October 2009 "Then comes the character we’ve all been waiting for: Ritchie swings down through the forest. He’s huge! Alighting on the platform, he samples the papayas and bananas, and then selects a coconut. With three mighty whacks against the wooden decking, Ritchie smashes open the fruit and casually tastes its interior. With a strength up to ten times that of humans, an orangutan instils a sense of awe." Encountering wild orangutans in the forests of Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia. Not available for republication.
	Somewhere in Borneo... Your Life Choices, September 2009 "It’s a Monday and, even for a travel writer, I’m experiencing an unusual afternoon at work. I’m at the front of a two-person kayak, paddling and sometimes drifting down the Sarawak Kiri River in Borneo, on my first-ever kayaking foray. The humidity is relatively low, it’s a hot sunny day, and I’m moving past lush green banks. If only I could get my balance right, I’d be in paradise." I go kayaking in Sarawak, Malaysia, on the tropical island of Borneo. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available.
	Shanghai Surprises Medical Observer, 7 August 2009 "Never one to avoid an amusingly tacky gift, I pick up a small red wind-up alarm clock featuring an image of Mao, with his arm frantically waving his Little Red Book at the masses. I also fancy a set of playing cards with interwar Shanghai posters, another set depicting a bizarre 1970s ballet involving women with guns, and a relatively tasteful set of worry balls featuring a dragon and a phoenix." Exploring the Old Town district of Shanghai, China. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available.
	Profound Devotion The West Australian, 25 July 2009 "Music is playing loudly, smoke is billowing from a nearby shrine, and a flock of birds is flying across the sky above the crowd. It’s an invigorating atmosphere: a potent blend of aroma, sound, colour, motion and human vibrancy that reaches deeper than the rational mind, intensely moving in both its passion and the good humour of the crowds which have come to share in it." Witnessing the Hindu festival of Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Available for republication (print and Web). Images available.
	24 Hours in Kuala Lumpur The Age & The Sydney Morning Herald, 11 July 2009 "Younger than most Australian cities, KL has the energetic feel of a city still in the process of establishing its identity, symbolised by the contrasts between the modern Kuala Lumpur City Centre, bustling Chinatown, and its colonial architecture. The icing on the cake - or the sambal on the laksa, perhaps - is the city's multi-ethnic population." Outlining the attractions of the Malaysian capital over a single day. Available for republication (print only). Images available. [Read the full article here]

Lonely Planet TV: Shanghai Snapshot
www.lonelyplanet.tv, July 2009

Travel: Asia

I'm a member of the Australian Society of Travel Writers. This page contains examples of my travel writing, organised by location. Each entry includes a sample paragraph, and indications of available rights.

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